Daily Fashion Arabia in conversation with Nawal Rmili, founder of YZA handbags.
Graphics & Article by Rania Abdalla
Photos by Nawal Rmili/YZA
Photos by Nawal Rmili/YZA
Marrakech to Paris: Nawal's Fashion Odyssey
Nurtured by Marrakech's vibrant streets and adorned in her mother's traditional kaftans, Nawal Rmili’s early life was steeped in fashion. Yet, it was Paris and its eminent fashion scene that beckoned her. Even without direct ties to the city's high-fashion circles, Nawal was resolute in her ambitions. Transitioning into communications and marketing, she collaborated with industry giants like Giambattista Valli and magazines like Marie Claire and Vogue International, Curating content for brands as illustrious as Warner Bros. to leading campaigns for Chanel.
Despite her achievements, a deeper ambition persisted: YZA. In the intricate designs of YZA's basketry bags, crafted from date palm and raffia, Nawal's passion for her roots shines through, capturing both the spirit of Marrakech and her deep reverence for nature.
A Brand with Purpose: Nawal's Ethical Blueprint for YZA
The devastating events like the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, which unfolded during Nawal's tenure at Glamour, served as stark reminders of the fashion industry's darker side. However, what truly shook Nawal was the industry's indifferent silence. "You'd imagine such tragedies would spark significant changes or, at the very least, provoke louder dialogues. But there's a prevailing, unsettling silence," expressed Nawal. "Every purchase we make, every brand we support, places us within this story. It's about time we see beyond the glitz and consider where our money truly goes."
It was during her career transition, a moment of introspection and determination, that Nawal realized she needed to realign her professional journey with her personal ethos.
"At one point, I just hit this wall and thought, 'This isn't me anymore.' I needed my work to reflect what I truly believed in. I mean, why not put some good out there, or at least avoid adding to the bad, right? The dream? Always been to launch my own handbag line. But if I was gonna do it, it had to be ethical, a complete 180 from what I'd seen in the industry." - Nawal Rmili
With this newfound clarity, Nawal was intent on setting YZA apart — her brand would stand firmly on the pillars of ethical work conditions, empowering women, and ensuring fair compensation.
From Heartache to Handcraft: YZA, Nawal Rmili's Ode to Heritage
Transformed by the profound loss of her father, Nawal channeled her grief into YZA, a brand that stands as a tribute to both her father who instilled in her the values deeply rooted in Moroccan culture and Islam.
Nawal proudly accentuates that YZA is a reflection of Morocco's richness and not an appropriation from Parisian or western influences. Ensuring every piece is Moroccan-made, she champions the artistry, talent, and creativity of her homeland. And while sometimes the global narrative might marginalize "Moroccan" craftsmanship, Nawal, alongside platforms like Daily Fashion Arabia, challenges and overturns such misconceptions.
“I think it's empowering to see the rise and respect of Middle Eastern and North African brands as a movement. We're asserting that what we do is commendable and noteworthy. It's not just the West that can produce amazing things. We have our contributions too.” - Nawal Rmili
YZA: Marrakech's Artisanal Essence Through Nawal's Ethical Lens
In her pursuit of exceptional basketry bags, Nawal, with her cousin's company, ventured deep into the intricate confines of Marrakech and its adjoining villages. To her astonishment, she found that Marrakech's bustling markets were dominated by middlemen, who marked up prices of handcrafted items sourced from distant artisans. Digging deeper, she discovered these artisans were primarily women, diligently crafting, yet sorely undervalued.
The sustainable approach of these artisans deeply resonated with Nawal. They employed an eco-centric methodology: date palm leaf remnants were dried and merged with organic matters to create compost. The bags, designed for endurance, were also intended to decompose, emphasizing sustainability.
Determined to rewrite this narrative, Nawal collaborated with these women artisans. Beyond ensuring they received a fair wage, she sought to empower them, highlighting the international significance of their local craftsmanship, and integrating it within the broader fashion landscape.
YZA is Nawal's manifesto — a brand that defies conventions and champions artisanal craftsmanship, women's rights, and ethical business practices. It epitomizes the harmonious blend of traditional artistry with contemporary fashion, all anchored by Nawal's unwavering commitment to sustainability and fairness.
Reverie of Amazigh: The Power, Femininity, and Legacy Behind YZA
Every brand in fashion bears a legacy, a tale, an identity. YZA, in its essence, resonates with the power of its Amazigh lineage and roots—literally meaning "powerful." The story is further deepened by an ethereal presence in the founder's life: her mother's aunt, Zeina. The moniker "YZA" isn't merely a brand label. It's a profound tribute.
Nawal’s aunt, Zeina, epitomized the authentic Amazigh spirit. Not only did she communicate in the Amazigh tongue, but her very being was a canvas, adorned with intricate tattoos weaving tales across her face and hands. This wasn't just a sartorial choice. Every drape of traditional Amazigh attire, every tattoo, spoke of a deep reverence for her heritage and a love for self-expression.
For many urban Moroccans, the sight of a woman with facial tattoos can be an unexpected spectacle. However, in Zeina's case, these markings went beyond mere aesthetics. They were powerful narratives, emblematic of her roots and the indomitable spirit they symbolized. Beyond these visible markers, Zeina’s formidable aura defined her as a woman of immense strength and substance. To the founder, Zeina wasn’t merely a familial figure but an eternal muse for YZA.
Marrakech Mystique: Evoking Moroccan Glamour in Every Shade
For YZA, color selection is not just about visual appeal. It's a reflection of Morocco's dynamic culture. The brand's palette is deeply influenced by Morocco's unique ambiance. Colors like terracotta orange represent Marrakech's streets, while vibrant yellows capture the city's market energy. Soft pinks reflect Marrakech’s 'Rose City' moniker, and the greens and beiges hint at the region's parks and deserts. As Nawal explains, "Our palette mirrors Morocco's unique energy."
YZA's leather straps, colored with these shades, are more than accessories; they're a gateway to Marrakech's blend of history and contemporary life. They aim to give wearers a taste of Morocco's intriguing culture.
In Morocco, colors carry deep cultural significance. They can be seen in the sunsets, skies, bustling markets, and intricate home designs, telling tales of the country's past and present. While the world debates style and color, Moroccan hues narrate stories of tradition and modern aspirations.
Beyond the allure of color, YZA is also sculpted by Moroccan architecture's nuances. Nawal, guided by her architect sister, infuses the brand with age-old artistry and modern design elements prevalent in Morocco. The brand's signature Marrakech basketry resonates with the city's intricate patterns, winding alleys, and maze-like streets. Every YZA piece encapsulates both Marrakech's rich history and its distinct architectural allure.
YZA: The Timeless Pursuit of the Ultimate 'It Bag'
As the narrative of fashion evolves, certain elements become emblematic of their era, transcending fleeting trends. One such symbol, often considered the linchpin of a brand's identity, is the 'IT BAG'. At the heart of YZA's offerings lies this very concept.
In the dynamic landscape of fashion, where trends constantly shift and evolve, YZA's origin is anchored in timeless appeal. "I was inspired by the concept of the iconic bag," says Nawal, the creative force behind the brand. These signature pieces, unaffected by fleeting trends, etch a permanent mark in the annals of fashion history.
While the term 'iconic bag' might sound traditional, its essence never loses its charm. It symbolizes that unique accessory—distinctive in design and ever-relevant through changing times.
Nawal's goal with YZA was clear-cut: to design a bag that would not only be a fleeting sensation but also a lasting representation of refined style. In today's world, dominated by quick trends and evolving tastes, YZA stands out as a symbol of enduring elegance, designed to be recognized years later as an indisputable fashion staple.
YZA is more than a passive observer of this cultural renaissance – it is a trailblazer. By having Berber symbols and motifs into the brand’s title and designs, the brand aims not merely to delight the eye but to enlighten and inspire. Through YZA, the founder is crafting a dual homage: to Zeina's indomitable spirit and to an age-old culture ready for its luminous moment in contemporary times.
Don't miss out on the latest from YZA - make sure to follow it on IG @YZAHandmade and her online store.